Round the world - New Zealand

New Zealand really is a much prettier version of the UK. The landscapes are breathtaking and the vast majority of people I met (albeit I spent most of my time on South Island) were from the UK.

By sheer luck, I overhead a short conversation on top of Queensland Hill about a road closure. After descending, I did a quick search and realised Highway 6 was closed near Haast. This meant the whole of the West Coast was really hard to get to, with the only alternative being a 15 hour detour.

Though the highway agency said the earliest day it would reopen would be in a few days time I did not want to risk it and proceeded to rebook all my accommodation. This eventually turned out to be the right decision as that section of road was closed for nearly 2 weeks!

So no helicopter ride at Franz Josef. I rerouted and planned to visit Lake Tekapo and Arthur's Pass. The comments online of Arthur's Pass being scary to drive unsettled me, but I didn't have many alternatives. I had to just go for it.

At least the two train rides I had booked was still scheduled to run!

Waypoints

-45.03291, 168.66094 - Queenstown

Landing into Queenstown was spectacular. The snow-capped mountains and crisp fresh air was delightful. I planned five nights in Queenstown to acclimatise and get some hikes in. I walked around Queenstown Park, climbed Queenstown Hill and hiked up to Ben Lomond Saddle. The final stretch to Ben Lomond Summit was beyond my fitness level - the month of eating in Japan prior added some grams back on. Though Queenstown is well known for adventure sports, I unfortunately was not brave enough to try bungee jumping or paragliding.

-44.66818, 167.92695 - Milford Sound

The weather forecast was rain all day for the date I booked the tour to Milford Sound. I was tempted to change the date, but after some research it turned out rain was perfect conditions to visit! I was glad to book a tour as driving for 10 hours in one day on single lane twisty roads did not sound like fun. The tour guide was great and we stopped off at many places en route to Milford Sound. We hopped onto a cruise boat and took on the full force of the wind and rain to be rewarded with so many powerful waterfalls, penguins and seals. All in all, the fjordlands are an amazing place full of incredible scenery.

-44.93846, 168.83149 - Arrowtown

After picking up the rental car, I drove the short road up from Queenstown to Arrowtown. The small village was very quaint - there is a nice loop to walk along the river and back through the main high street. Would recommend stopping by the sweet shop! The Chinese Settlement is also interesting to visit to learn a different side to the gold rush.

-44.69889, 169.11785 - Wanaka

I was only passing through Wanaka so stopped by the lake for a short break and managed to get some nice photos of 'that Wanaka tree' which sits serenely in the lake. The mountain backdrop and lake foreground will feature a lot in any road trip through New Zealand's South Island.

-44.60384, 169.24792 - Lake Hawea

When I originally booked my accommodation seven months prior, a lot of hotels were already gone or incredibly expensive in the Wanaka area. Thus, I ended up booked a lakeside cabin in Lake Hawea campsite. Though I would not have my camping gear with me, the cabin was well set up with electricity and a small kitchen! The views out of the window were amazing and the weather held up until sunset when the heavens opened. Given the temperatures plummeted at night I was very glad to not be in a tent or a campervan.

-44.00103, 170.46994 - Lake Tekapo

Since this was completely unplanned due to the road closure, I did not know what to expect from Lake Tekapo. Afterwards, this may have been the highlight of New Zealand for two reasons. Firstly, the hike up to Mt John Observatory was a great early morning workout. The descent via the lake shore was phenomenal and offered breathtaking views. Secondly, there is a small truck in a car park which sells the best fish and chips I have tasted in many many years. Seriously. The batter is light, crisp and brilliantly seasoned. The coleslaw is a nice touch to cut through the oil. Plus the views of Lake Tekapo when you eat is the cherry on top.

-43.51776, 171.65814 - Rakaia Gorge

Since this was hastily booked last minute due to the land slips on highway 6, I randomly picked a place en route from Lake Tekapo to Arthur's Pass to break up the drive. I booked a couple nights here to take a rest day without much thought. There is not too much to do around here outside of ski season - the town of Methven is nice to stroll around with a well advertised 12km walking loop. Rakaia Gorge itself is nice to look out, just be careful of the water levels.

-42.93917, 171.56163 - Arthur's Pass Village

Arthur's Pass is stunning to drive. Really spectacular scenery at every turn, and there are many many turns! It is common to be stuck behind a slow vehicle; kudos to all the lorry drivers, I would certainly not be able to drive such large vehicles on small twisty roads. Upon arriving at Arthur's Pass Village, the hike up to Devil's Punchbowl waterfall is a must. There are many steps up and down though. Back in the village, the cafes are worth a visit also. I stayed a night in a nice place overlooking the railway station and had a fun time spotting the TranzAlpine train I will take the next day.

-42.4483, 171.21427 - Greymouth

The drive down to Greymouth featured the steepest part of Arthur's Pass. Torrential rain made it even more scary. There are some places to pull up and stop to take photos, but when it is raining, you really just want to make it down the mountain safely. Hire car drop off at Greymouth train station was simple and check in for the TranzAlpine train was straight forward. Soon enough, I was on my way back through Arthur's Pass and across to Christchurch.

-43.53457, 172.63778 - Christchurch

Christchurch was a nice place to spend a few days. There is ample to see and do in the CBD as well as easy bus rides away to the coast. The affects of the earthquakes are obvious for all to see - there are many car parking lots where buildings used to be, and the constant hum of building works provides a glimpse into what Christchurch might look like in the future. A tranquil stroll along the River Avon is highly recommended as well as breakfast in Riverside Market.

-41.28553, 174.00466 - Picton

I rode the Coastal Pacific train from Christchurch to Picton in Scenic Plus class (Scenic class was fully booked for my dates). There weren't many passengers so we all had our own table and the service was incredible. We were constantly given drinks and the food was very tasty and served at good intervals. The staff were engaging and conversed with all the passengers one by one. Both the TranzAlpine and and Coastal Pacific trains are considered tourist trains so I would recommend going Scenic Plus class - having travelled in both classes, the difference is worth the extra price, especially when there are not many trains in New Zealand. The Coastal Pacific links up with the Interislander ferry over to Wellington, so checked in luggage can automatically be transferred across for your convenience.

-41.29045, 174.78145 - Wellington

I only had one full day in Wellington, so I had to get a Weta Workshop tour in. Pick up in the city centre was easy and enjoyable. We even had time to stop off at The Roxy Cinema! The Weta tour itself was amazing. It was so cool to see so many props - the cave trolls and the Sauron models were the highlights for me. The rest of the day was spent in the Te Papa museum and a stroll along the waterfront to wrap up a wonderful trip to New Zealand.